Cycling in Snow and Ice
From CycleSheffield
UNDER CONSTRUCTION
Use busier roads as they are more likely to be clear of ice. Don’t be afraid to take the centre of a lane as the roads will be a couple of feet narrower than usual because of snow accumulating in the gutter.
If you are driving, don’t get angry with the person cycling in the middle of a busy road – they are doing it for their own (and your) safety. Phone up the council instead and suggest that they grit cycle paths and footways so that people don’t have to cycle on busy roads in bad weather. And don’t drive close behind a cyclist on icy roads. If he falls, will you be able to stop ? Don’t spray cyclists with slush as you pass.
Don’t overdress – cycling keeps you warm. But get good gloves as your fingers get cold.
Enjoy it. Moonlight on snow covered fields is magical.
Look ahead. Anything that looks dark and smooth or wet may be ice.
Snow compacted in wheel ruts is easier to ride on but can be slippery. The uncompacted snow between the wheel tracks is harder work but safer.
If you lose control of a bike on ice you lose your dignity. If you lose control of a car on ice somebody (maybe you) will lose their life. Icy weather is not a good reason to drive.
There is no shame in walking if it gets too bad.
on slick tyres
Reduce pressure in tyres Ride fix Use trainers with good grip Thick gloves Long johns Thick socks Wind proof top
Avoid exposed road where it is likely to be ice
Use a two-wheel drive tricycle. My Ken James trike exists for snow and ice riding and the two freewheels ensure traction. Trad trikes are not superior to bikes except in the matter of avoiding falling off in the winter. Obviously beards are de rigeur for this mode of transport {;¬) . Wear a flo yellow vest over your coat to catch the salty filth thrown up by said trike. Yours on three wheels but hopefully back on two soon [please]. In > snow I'd take my MTB (knobbly tyres, suspension) and for ice I'd take > my (er) ICE recumbent trike.... > No, on second thoughts, just stick to what others have suggested ;)
My Windcheetah is excellent fun in snow and ice: brakes off = trike, brakes on = sledge :)
Have to be careful not to power-slide sideways when setting off though...
Listen to your tyres – in a car tyre noise practically disappears on ice, on a bike you additionally hear the thin ice bridging the granular tarmac and air pockets ‘crackling’ under the point load of your tyres.
Cycling shows clearly the benefit of using a vehicle which weighs around one tenth of its payload (you) and if you slide off the road you simply pick up the bike and re-mount (or walk). You cannot do this with a car – which generally weighs 10 times MORE than you do.
You can carry a bike across snowdrifts.
A number of cyclists have a set of studded tyres (usually fitted to winter riding wheels) a lot cheaper than studded tyres for a car or snow chains, and easy to swap over when on ice/snow conditions prevail (takes a couple of minutes with q/r’s), and with a set of fork mounted brackets you could even carry them around with you
Practice judo/parachute fall & roll techniques.
Practice skid correction and experience front and rear wheel sliding.
Fit hub brakes – be well aware of limitations of rim brakes with salt water in cables, and dirty slush on the braking surfaces
Ride in the tyre tracks if the road is gritted and this has turned to slush. Plough through virgin snow in preference to hard packed stuff. Sadly the UK has a maritime climate and rarely gets that lovely dry powder snow which is such fun to ride through – if you keep up your speed you can punch through drifts up to axle height
Wrap up your feet as well as your hands, plastic bags inside your shoes over thin socks under thicker ones. Don’t wear your best jacket/trousers etc as these could be holed in a fall – do wear bulky (padded) wool things.
Avoid looking like a prat (and being one) by perching a helmet on top of a big woolly hat and other accessories which effectively compromise the function of the helmet, potentially making it slide around your head so the straps strangle you
Avoid cycling in sub-zero temperatures... when you must, observe the road surface very carefully. Probably cycle paths and back roads will be hazardous as they won't be gritted. Ice won't be visible in the dark. On ice and snow make only the gentlest of turns.
Don't use cleats or toe-clips. If and when you come off you want to get rid of the bike, as it's easier to stop and re-gain your feet.
In such weather the ideal cycle is a 3 wheeled recumbent.
Stable, no need to put feet down or unclip, and even a bit of oppy-locky.
Enjoy
rod
And try not to ride at night.....snow & ice is easier to avoid if you can actually see it!
Jim Bush, RtR Croydon
wrote: > Also.don't use cleats or toe-clips. If and when you come off you want to get rid of the bike, as it's easier to stop and re-gain your feet.
